In and Out of Khartoum

A loop of Sudan taking in the countries highlights

Sudan is unwittingly a dream destination for many, with incredible archaeological sights, stunning desert landscapes, few tourists, and friendly locals. Unfortunately, over recent years, many of the neighboring countries have had or are currently struggling with domestic issues and security, making an overland trip to Sudan difficult. Therefore, we’ve focused this itinerary on a flight in and out of the capital, Khartoum, accessible from major African and Middle Eastern airports. 

Khartoum Loop Travel Route

Khartoum

Arriving at Khartoum International Airport, you’ll already be close to the city’s center (note a new international airport outside of the city is due to open in 2022). On arrival in Khartoum, you’ll immediately be struck by the contrasting architecture between old and new. Sudan’s relatively newfound oil wealth has funded several notable landmark buildings across the city. This has given the city the feel of a cross between an African and Middle Eastern capital.

Geographically, Khartoum is intersected by the Blue and White Nile and is famous for its location where the two rivers meet (the confluence). The rivers divide the city with the center around the confluence of the Nile Rivers, which is where it’s best to base yourself out of this downtown area. There are plenty of hotel options to suit your budget, with an increasing amount of high-end options following the oil and infrastructure boom of recent years. 

Khartoum city skyline at sunset
The metropolitan area and ultra modern skyline of Khartoum contrasts with the rest of Sudan

Best Things to See and Do in Khartoum

As a destination, it’s true Khartoum isn’t blessed with an abundance of attractions, but there’s enough to keep you interested for a couple of days. Here are the top 5 things to do in Khartoum:
 
1. Sudan National Museum
2. Tuti Island
3. Walking Tour and Coffee on Nile Street
4. Mojo Gallery
5. Afra Mall
 
Aside from the sights of Khartoum, it’s also a great place to experience Sudanese culture. The city is awash with small eateries and coffee shops, and it’s well worth stopping off in a few of these to get a sense of the real Sudan. There are several great places on Nile Street that are worth checking out.

Dongola

Heading North to Dongola it’s a 530 km drive, which takes up to 7 hours. The new Chinese financed and built roads make this route a lot more palatable than it once was. The journey takes you through miles and miles of desert land with very few settlements. Coming into Dongola, it is a great feeling to see signs of civilization again and a thriving market town. 
 
Most visitors to Dongola are surprised by the greenery, which contrasts with the endless desert. The significant date plantations offer a welcome, colorful reprieve from the endless desert. The town itself is relatively modern by Sudanese standards, having been established in the early 19th century. It’s also not to be confused with Old Dongola, which lies 80 kilometers to the south and is the capital of the Kingdom of Makuria. 
 
Dongola isn’t blessed with an abundance of attractions, but you’ll find a great laid-back atmosphere with friendly locals. It’s well worth spending a day sampling the local tea shops and taking a walk along the banks of the Nile.
The pyramids and mountain at jebel barkal in Sudan
The pyramids at Jebel Barkal with the imposing mountain in the background

Kawa

Situated 3km to the south of Dongola is Kawa, a once prestigious city. The site was deserted in the 4th century AD, and what remains has been excavated in various digs over the last 100 years. These digs revealed many marble ruins, most notably the Temple of Amun. These ruins have been mainly left to the desert once again, making this an archaeological site for only the most ardent archaeologists.

The road into the archaeological site of Kawa
The remote and sandy road to Kawa archaeological site

Karima

Heading east of Dongola, it’s a 2-hour journey by road to the next notable settlement and destination, the market town of Karima. While the town doesn’t warrant a visit on its own merits, it’s an ideal base for exploring the local sites. Chief among these are the pyramids and tombs of Nuri and the mountain and surrounding archaeological site at Jebel Barkal.

Jebel Barkal, Pyramids and Temple of Amun

The holy mountain of Jebel Barkal is situated just on the edge of the town of Karima. Believed by the Egyptians and the Kushites alike to be the home of the god Amun, the mountain is home to the Temple of Amun and a cemetery containing several pyramids. 

The mountain of Jebel Barkal can be scaled in 30 minutes and rewards those who make the climb with excellent views across Karima, the pyramids, and the Temple of Amun. Dating back over 3000 years, the temple is partially lost to time and partially lost to the desert. The views from the top of Jebel Barkal provide the best insight into the scale and layout of the temple. Closer up, it’s still possible to see frescoes and hieroglyphics. The pyramids remain in better condition and retain almost all their original form. 

The archaeological site is one of Sudan’s star attractions, and it is well worth spending the best part of a day here to explore the area along with the pyramids at Nuri.

The pyramids and mountain at jebel barkal in Sudan
The pyramids at Jebel Barkal with the imposing mountain in the background

Nuri

Nuri is located a couple of kilometers northeast of Karima and is the site of a royal cemetery. Dating back to the 7th century BC, these tombs and associated pyramids are older than those found elsewhere in Sudan. While the pyramids are crumbling and somewhat lost to the desert, there’s still plenty to see, making a visit worthwhile.

The crumbling pyramids at nuri in sudan
Nuri is the site of a cemetery that dates back to the 7th century BC.

Atbara

A 3-hour drive east of Karima is the junction town of Atbara. To the north lies the road to Wadi Halfa, east the road to Port Sudan, south the road to Khartoum, and west the road to Karima and Dongola. The town is much like any other Sudanese town and is an excellent place to stock up ahead of venturing into the Sudanese desert to see the Pyramids of Meroe.

The Pyramids of Meroe in the Sudanese desert
The little known but beautiful Pyramids of Meroe in Sudan

Pyramids of Meroe

Located just off of the main Atbara – Khartoum highway and 20 kilometers south of Atbara, the Pyramids of Meroe are perhaps Sudan’s greatest attraction. The site is home to around 100 pyramids across a northern, western, and southern cemetery. The cemeteries date from the 8th century BC to the 4th century AD. Home to the royals and nobles of the Kushite Empire, the pyramids lay in varying states of repair. Some of this is on account of the age of the pyramids, while an Italian treasure hunter of the 19th century can take the blame for blowing the top off of most of the pyramids. Despite this damage, what is undeniable is the magic of the site. At both sunrise and sunset, the pyramids give off an ethereal glow. The site is also one of the few destinations in the world you can enjoy alone and undisturbed. 

Aerial view of the pyramids of Meroe
A visit to the royal cemetery at Meroe is a magical and unique experience.

Naqa

Fifty kilometers south of the Pyramids of Meroe are the Temples of Naqa. The principal attractions are the Temple of Amun and the Lion Temple, which are believed to date back to around the 1st Century AD.  The Temple of Amun has been partially reconstructed, and for anyone who has visited the Temples of Luxor and Karnak in Egypt, the layout and design will look familiar. The Lion Temple is more classically Kushite and honors the Kushite God of Apedemak. Both temples are in a reasonable state of repair and feature reliefs and engravings. A visit is highly recommended for anyone not yet saturated by archaeological sites.

The remains of the Temple of Amun in Naqa Sudan
The remains of the Temple of Amun in Naqa, Sudan

From Naqa, it’s several hours drive south back to Khartoum to close the loop. 

Why not try some of our other guides?

We hope you’ve enjoyed our In and Out of Khartoum trip guide. Why not try some of our other guides for EgyptAfrica, or perhaps other intrepid travel destinations?

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